Sierra de cazorla segura y las villas

Information | access | accommodation | camping | Caves | planta | FaunaRivers | points To see | Villages

By Jo Williams

With a completamente surface area that 209,920ha y covering almost uno fifth that Jaen province, this is Spain"s largest defended area y one the most considerable forested zones. Situated in east Jaen province, that connects the sierra Morena and the Subbética mountain ranges. Ns highest height in this immense park is mía Empanada at 2,107m y the entire parque is greater than 600m.

Estás mirando: Sierra de cazorla segura y las villas

Recognizing its exceptional environmental importance, it was designated uno Unesco biosphere make reservation in mil novecientos ochenta y tres and produced a natural park in 1989. First impressions of the park may consists barren rocky crests y vast pine tree forests, but the area"s botanical importance en is matched just by the sierra Nevada, with uno fifth of the vascular tree in the Iberian peninsula being discovered in the Sierra ese Cazorla natural Park. That is also home to 51 species of mammals, ciento ochenta y cinco birds, veintiuno reptiles (including an endemic lizard), doce amphibians, once fish and one of ns highest variety of butterfly species in los Iberian peninsula, with 112 varieties found here.

Two of ns Iberian peninsula"s most important rivers, los great río Guadalquivir and the Segura, have their sources in ns Sierra del Cazorla, amid part of the wildest see in Spain.

Innumerable brooks y rivulets tumble occasionally torrentially from the sides of this mountain enclave, producing some magnificent waterfalls, prefer those the the baile de ese Órganos and the cascada de Linarejos, and sheer-sided gorges, such as the cerrada de Utrero and the cerrada de la Canaliega. Many lakes y reservoirs are dotted around the park; by far los largest is ns Embalse de Tranco, alimentado by los infant Guadalquivir and its tributaries.

This is uno fine camping y hiking area. Girlfriend can despierta up in the middle of ns night to the sound (and smell) that boars snuffling about outside. This is also los spot whereby you are most likely to discover ns herd of neto deer in ns undergrowth. They"re not tame and will rotate tail at your approach, yet encounters room frequent.

The Sierra de Cazorla offers ns wealth that activities; you can do hiking, steed treks, hill biking expeditions, four-wheel journey tours, canoeing, fishing, paragliding, hang-gliding, mountaineering, climbing y caving.

Geologically, the ver is written of difficult limestone, beneath which lies uno softer layer of clays and red sands; they can be checked out in cross-section in some of ns largest gorges. That sheltered place between ns Montes Universales and the Sierra nevada means that it was ideally located to provide ns refuge because that high altitude tree during ns tremendous climatic changes in the Ice Age.

Consequently, these mountains contain ns number of Tertiary relict species not uncovered anywhere rather in the world. Volaus cazorlensis, uno shrubby violet con unusual deep crimson or carmine flowers and very long slender spurs, is one of ns most interesting. Found in remote locations hidden in the depths that shady rock crevices, it flowers in May; that is nearest living relatives are found as much away together Mount Olympus in Greece y Montenegro. One more of these relict species is ns insectivorous butterwort Pinguicula vallisneriifolia.

The climate is extremely changeable. Over there is many of rainfall in this part of; the parque receives an annual average that 770mm. Los intense summer warmth frequently causes dramatic electric storms that often lead to major forest fires. In summer dos mil cinco around 5,000ha of backwoods were destroyed by a serie of fires brought about by lightning. Snow y frost are typical in winter y below-zero temperatures can persist till late May.

The summer thunderstorms hurl financial institutions of dark clouds against the perpendicular walls of the high sierras. The mountains record moisture representar the Atlantic y the Mediterranean y their performance as a naturalmente barrier is imposed by ns thermal masses of warm atmósfera from ns Levant which usually prevent los Atlantic clouds desde moving additional east; rain drops in sheets once warm air meets cold aire above Cazorla. These routine inundations space irregular and unpredictable.


There are two visitors" centres, both on ns A319. These have actually some amazing exhibitions on ns park"s flora y fauna y can administer maps and information ~ above walks and accommodation.


The main one is the centrar de visitante Torre ese Vinagre at km 18, housed in uno former hunting lodge and around 30km northeast of Cazorla, 953 713 017. It"s open 10am-2pm y 5pm-8pm every día in summer and Wednesday to Sunday in winter.

Further north is the centro de Interpretación río Río Borosa, with an amazing exhibition about ns typical river in the park showing its flora y fauna, along con an aquarium. The is near Torres de Albánchez at km 47, 953 124 235. It"s open daily in July y August (Wednesday to Sunday los rest of ns year) 10am-2pm. Opening times for the afternoon vary according to month: July and August 6pm-8pm, April to September 5pm-7pm and October to March 4pm-6pm.

The beneficial tourist info office in Cazorla is in ~ Paseo ese Santo Cristo 17, just phia băc of ns Plaza después la Constitución, 953 710 102.


The park is easily easily accessible via los main A319 road that dissects the park norte to south. There are various other roads come choose desde within the park, in miscellaneous conditions, representar dirt monitor passable con four-wheel drives only (particularly in winter) to paved minor roads suitable for every vehicles. Some roads might be impassable delaware snowfalls in winter. Bear in psychic that the whole area is very busy con visitors during holiday periods -papposo especially in ~ Easter y in July and August - y at weekends.


The main gateway to the parque is Cazorla, which is 45km east of Úbeda, return this route can obtain overcrowded at los busiest times. Various other entry points are north from Úbeda along ns N322 or, from the south, ns A315 from Baza (but this route requires passing v Cazorla). Los southern section is an ext touristy than ns north.

Off road, the park is crisscrossed by dirt tracks and footpaths, although couple of walks room signposted.


Apart desde Cazorla y La Iruela simply outside ns park"s southwest border, there are lots of hotels and self-catering cottages within los park, specifically in Arroyo Frío in los southern Guadalquivir valley and around Coto Ríos additional north. Make sure you book ahead in August. Over there is ns youth hostel in Cazorla.


The luxurious Parador El adelantado is situated in an attractive, far spot in los heart of ns park, 25km north of Cazorla town. Unfortunately, couple of rooms have actually windows looking out on ns wonderful see around ns hotel.


Within the park is uno good choice of campsites, with lots that attractive places, regularly in un riverside position, tucked far in dense pine forests.


Camping Chopera ese Coto Rios is, together its name suggests, situated in uno poplar grove close to Coto Rios. A few kilometres desde the Torre del Vinagre visitors" centre, it has actually plenty the shade, a swimming pool y a restaurant.

Camping derivado La Canalica and Camping fluir Molinos are los park"s northernmost campsites, both southeast of siles on los road to los Acebeas. Both have actually swimming pools and Río Molinos rents bungalows.

Camping Rural derivado La Pascuala is on los A319 at Km 55 near Coto Rios. That is set in poplar y pine trees on los Guadalquivir river, with uno swimming pool.

Camping Rural los Robledo is 10 minutes" drive del sur of Segura después la sierra on los Yelmo road. In un beautiful setup at los foot of los 1,809m Yelmo peak, you deserve to pitch her tent beneath pine trees, or rent uno wooden cabin. Los campsite likewise has uno good pool and restaurant.

Camping La Bolera is on los shores of un small reservoir, los Embalse de la Bolera, on los southermost edge of ns park. Halfway between Pozo Alcón y Castril at kilometres 8, over there is a campsite (with campin gear because that hire) y bungalows.

Camping Garrote Gorde is uno basic campsite on calle Francisco Quevado in Segura ese la Sierra. Camping Montillana is just exterior Hornos on the A319 roadway towards Tranco at kilometres 78.5. The has a swimming pool and bicycle hire and horse riding are available.

Camping Puente de las Herrarías, in ~ Km dos on the Carretera después Nacimiento ese Río Guadalquivir, is uno complex with un hotel, wood cabins y a shady campsite located by the side of ns Guadalquivir river. Activities easily accessible include steed riding, canoeing, whitewater rafting, archery and fishing.

Camping Rural los Llanos de Arance is collection in shady pine woodland on los banks of the Guadalquivir, un great spot because that swimming and fishing. Wooden cabins are easily accessible for rent. Ns campsite is just off the A319 at kilometres 53.8.

Just external the parque is Camping Cortijo san Isício, ns small campsite en walkable distance (2km) southwest of Cazorla, off the road to Quesada. That has uno pool y lots of shade.


Suggested routes

Parque Cinegético Collado de Almendral- los main route right into the parque is through Cazorla town y La Iruela. Prior to heading into the park, it"s precious having uno stroll approximately Cazorla"s attractive centre, the beautiful key square, los Plaza de Santa María and the castillo de la Yedra, the Moorish castle on optimal of ns rocky slope that overlooks los town. An additional castle, although much more ruined 보다 that that Cazorla, is 2km away in La Iruela, perched precariously in an superior position atop un rocky pinnacle.


From La Iruela there are two options. Either cabeza north towards Burunchel where los road climbs gastos generales the Sierra del Segura via the mountain pass of los Puerta ese las Palomas, preventing at the observatorio for the magnificent views abajo the Guadalquivir valley.

Or turn south towards los Chorro, following the signs come La Cañada de la derivado to see los source of ns Guadalquivir river. You deserve to then turn north to join up with the A319 along the Guadalquivir valley.

Whichever route you choose, from el Valle ns road threads its method through ns beautiful wooded, small Guadalquivir valley. Ns tiny village of Arroyo Frio has some house options y restaurants. Ripe kilometres later on is the Torre de Vinagre visitors" centre, with un hunting museum y a botanical garden alongside, whereby you can find fuera de more about ns park.

Further ~ above is the long Embalse del Tranco, Jaen"s largest reservoir y one of the biggest in; fantastic spot for ns picnic y a dive if it"s heat enough.

Hugging los reservoir, ns road continues norte towards ns small village of Coto Rios, which has uno beach on los Guadalquivir river y several campsites. 7 kilometres further is the juego park parke Cinegético Collado ese Almendral. Simply past the game park look el fin for los Bujaraiza island, with its damaged castle, in ns reservoir. Bujaraiza is ns name of ns village that was submerged when ns reservoir to be created. Ns best place to stop and view the lago is the observatorio de Rodríguez del la Fuente, with great see of los reservoir"s islands y the Yelmo height beyond. Tranco is the next small village before friend leave the reservoir behind y the hilltop town of Hornos appears on los horizon. It"s worth un stop to enjoy los spectacular views over the Tranco reservoir y the village"s pretty small streets.

About 5km norte of Hornos is Cortijos Nuevos; revolve right here to ascend ns peak of Yelmo (1,809m). You have the right to drive all los way increase or andar to the top, for splendid panoramic views of los park.


Over doscientos caves have actually been catalogued in ns park and speleology is a generalizado activity.


Cueva después Agua is just outside Tíscar on the A315 at km 47, halfway in between Pozo Alcón y Quesada. Come reach los cave you have to go through uno tunnel, 10m long y 1m high. Los Cueva de Agua lives up come its surname (the cave of Water), because it is near to los source of ns Tíscar river, which tumbles down, occasionally turbulently, over the limestone rocks and has created magnificent waterfalls over the steepest drops. Occasional música concerts are hosted in los cave, to take advantage of that is superb naturalmente acoustics. The cave is likewise known as the Cueva de Virgen de Tíscar, delaware the village"s saint that allegedly showed up here before Tíscar"s Moorish ruler in 1319.

Cueva del Peinero, near Villacarrillo in ns Sierra después las Villas, is situated in un beautiful, remote steep-sided valley, siguiente to un picnic area y a mountain refuge, surrounding by backwoods ash trees, maples y gall oaks. To acquire there, walk to Chilluévar y drive north to los Embalse del Aguacebas y La Fresnedilla.

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Sierra de Quesada, near the town of los same name, is one of"s many important locations of prehistoric cave paintings, which have the right to be uncovered in the chaqueta del Cerro de Vitar, sur of ns town. Additionally in this sierra are the Cueva del Encarejo y the Cueva después Hiedra.


The parque contains about 1,300 types of plants, but you don"t have to be uno botanist come enjoy los immense woodlands of tall pines that reach up to 20m in height, los sweet-scented profusion that thyme, rosemary, marjoram and lavender y the brightly coloured wildflowers, such as peonies, gladioli and orchids. Los most outstanding areas of the park for flora are los Sierra ese las Empanandas, ns Sierra del las Cabrillas, ns Sierra ese Pozo y the Sierra del Segura.


There are 24 native flora here. Two endemic types of daffodil grow in these mountains: narcissus longispathus y n. Hedaenthus. Los latter is a tiny hoop-petticoat daffodil, los smallest narcissus in los Iberian peninsula, i m sorry is found in early on May in eye melt areas high in los mountains.

Pines have actually been los predominant vegetation in this area for over 10,000 years and the parque has some of ns oldest pines still standing in Spain. In ns Sierra después Cazorla, because that example, there space nearly 100 laricio pines that are estimated to be gastos generales 1,300 años old. Additionally in this ver is ns mighty pino Galapán, i beg your pardon is 35m high and measures 5m around its trunk.

Very little of ns native Mediterranean backwoods remains, having actually been replanted largely with pine trees. Some holm oak backwoods is left, along con small locations of bile oaks y the Mediterranean scrubland the has controlled to survive beneath los pine trees. However, there are uno few instances of centuries-old Mediterranean trees, mostly holm oaks and gall oaks, in the Sierra después Segura.

Above the treeline in ~ 1,300m are many sheer rocky cliffs y peaks that show up to it is in barren, yet are in fact los park"s richest areas for endemic and rare plant species. Top top limestone slopes space the azul columbine aquilegia pyrenaica ssp. Cazorlensis, which is only discovered around the summit of Pico de Cabañas (2,036m) y flowers in beforehand June; ns toadflaxes linaria lilacina y linaria verticillata; fairy foxglove (erinus alpinus) and sarcocapnos baetica.

On north-facing slopes room some interesting instances of butterworts, like los renowned yet rare flycatcher pinguicula vallisnerifolia, which is found in uno highly specialised habitat debajo towering limestone cliffs drenched in continually dripping water and totally out of reach of the rays of the sun. Various other plants farming on these damp, cool slopes space anthyllis ramburii, los saxifrages saxifraga camposii y saxifraga rigoi y the bell-shaped campanula mollis.

An endemic tree varieties found above 1,300m is laricio pine, which flourishes top top high hill slopes. Likewise at this altitude space hardy shrubs prefer hedgehog broom (erinacea anthyllis) y echinospartium boissieri, as well as savin y common junipers (juniperus sabina, j. Communis), dog roses (rosa canina), the endemic milk vetch astralagus giennensis, genista lobelii, various varieties of sandwort (arenaria tetraquetra, a.armerina, a.alfacariensis), Spanish barberries (berberis hispanica) y a honeysuckle endemic to ns Iberian peninsula that grows as ns small tree (lonicera arborea).

Known in your ar as navas, the high valleys are covered with grasses y wildflowers, idealistas fodder for the la red deer that graze here. Some of ns mountain tops are treeless, partly due to naturaleza causes, but likewise because overgrazing has actually tipped los ecological balance in favour the low-growing shrubs rather than trees. Here, too, snowy mespilus y Montpellier árbol de arce flourish alongside heather y the rock rose helianthemum croceum.

Between 1,300m and 1,00m are maritime pines (pinus pinaster), con an undergrowth that terebinth (pistacia terebinthus), maples (acer granatense, a. Monospessulanum), Phoenician juniper (juniperus phoenicea), prickly juniper (juniperus oxycedrus) y aromatic plants choose lavender (lavandula latifolia), thyme (thymus zygis) and marjoram (thymus mastichina).

In ns more humid locations at this altitude room maples, bile oaks (quercus faginea), yew (taxus baccata), st Lucie cherry tree (prunus mahaleb) and, in between rocky, wet areas, box (buxus semprevivens). Hellebores y peonies also grow profusely in this conditions.

Below 1,000m are forests of Aleppo pines, which space interspersed con Kermes oak (quercus coccifera), lentisc (pistacia lentiscus), laurestinus (viburnum tinus) y rock roses. Ns damper locations have climbing plants choose various varieties of honeysuckle (lonicera splendida, l. Implexa) y clematis.

Along the banks of the streams are verdant tunnels that flowers, grasses, ferns y shrubs. Rivers room lined con reeds, rushes, poplars, ash trees, willows y climbing honeysuckle, clematis y brambles, an often thick vegetation that provides food y nesting sites for aquatic birds y small mammals favor otters. At los Madera river eastern of Hornos is ns dense woodland of laricio pines, as well as ns beeches, poplars, oaks and pine trees that línea its banks.


Although one of ns park"s major attractions is its abundant and varied wildlife, humanidad intervention has meant that part of ns mammals that supplied to roam this mountains have actually disappeared from the region. Bears were los first to end up being extinct, in los 17th century, complied with much later on by wolves in ns 1920s. Game species like deer and wild boar died out here in the 1950s, prompting los creation of un 70,000ha national hunting make reservation in 1960, with los re-introduction the these together with los mouflon, a wild sheep with striking overlarge horns.On los highest rocky slopes are Spanish ibex.


Deer the town hall is easy. If girlfriend visit in September or beforehand October you deserve to observe ns extraordinary spectacle of the berrea, when ns stags stake fuera both their territorio claims and their harems. Tilting back their top so the their antlers remainder on your backs, they only to los winds to attract any kind of females en earshot. Occasionally their cry is reply by a challenge y there then adheres to fierce butting and crashing that antlers until the weaker male provides way.

The pets to it is in culled space picked an extremely carefully y the result is virtually that of an completo protected zone. The red deer and roe deer room not conveniently intimidated by ns presence of humanidad intruders. Your visibility varies, however, follow to the season. During los summer, when ns days get very hot, specifically in ns rocky and treeless areas, ns animals come out only in ~ night, so girlfriend may captura a glimpse of them in ns evening or at an early stage dawn. In winter their habits change y with ns reasonable amount of discretion you can come close come them before they operación off.

Many that the 29 species of aves de presa can be viewed frequently, soaring on thermals high above the mountain peaks. These encompass griffon vultures, Egyptian vultures, short-toed eagles, booted eagles, Bonelli"s eagles, golden eagles, neto kites, kestrels, goshawks, sparrowhawks and peregrine falcons. Nocturnal predators include los scops owl, tawny owl and eagle owl.

There are rare sightings of ns famous lammergeier, con its enormous wing span, i beg your pardon is memorably called quebrantahuesos in Spanish, or bone breaker, due to its habit of dropping that is prey abajo to rocks desde a an excellent height come break their bones. It used to breed below but no longer does. That is ns only location in Spain outside the Pyrenees where it deserve to still it is in seen, although efforts are being made to re-introduce it as a nesting varieties within ns park, with the creation of a breeding programme based in ~ the centro de Cria Guadalentin. You can find fuera more at the quebrantahuesos information centre in the Plaza del Santa María, in Cazorla.

The parque has crucial population the birds typically found in pine forests, such together coal tits, an excellent tits, crested tits, firecrests, azure-winged magpies, white wagtails y green woodpeckers. In the Mediterranean woodland of holm and gall oaks and maples room long-tailed tits, robins, short-toed treecreepers, wrens and blackbirds, i beg your pardon in winter room joined by blackcaps y song thrushes. Above the treeline and on rocky slopes are roca thrushes, azul rock thrushes, red-billed choughs y alpine accentors.

Among los predatory mammals inhabiting ns woodland areas are ns fox, genet, rock marten, wild cat, badger, polecat and weasel. Un subspecies of los common squirrel is endemic to the park y inhabits ns Sierra después Segura. Uno third of los mammal varieties found in the park are bats.

Reptiles include nine species of snakes, together well ns Valverde lizard, otherwise known as the Spanish algyroides, i beg your pardon is endemic to the park y lives in humid, rocky areas.

The plenty of rivers and streams and their financial institutions are havens for wildlife, favor rainbow and common trout, carp, barbel, black perch, otters, frogs, toads and various types of duck, dippers y kingfishers. Riverside madera are populated by nightingales and golden orioles. On ns park"s reservoirs space coots, moorhens, mallards, príncipe herons and grebes.

Look fuera for butterflies in spring y early summer, particularly the Spanish Argus and the mother-of-pearl blue. Many species are endemic, like los rare zygaena ignifera.


With two of Spain"s most vital rivers, the Guadalquivir, i m sorry carries the water 700km from the sierras to ns Atlantic, and the Segura, which leads to los Mediterranean, the parque constitutes one of ns country"s most far-ranging hydrological areas.


Virtually all ns water courses rush come join los Guadalquivir (except ns waters of los nascent río Guadalentin which at some point flows into the Guadiana Menor). Beside los main valley of los Gudalquivir, the parque comprises several nearby valleys, such together that of Guadalentin and the gorges of Borosa and Aguamala; dramatic narrow cuts in ns landscape with steep slopes spanned in bushes y pine trees, y high mountain meadows saturado of succulent grasses and wild flowers rápido rich pastureland for herds that sheep.

From the Guadalquivir"s resource in the Cañada del las la fuente the resulting stream flows confidently north and east, together if it to be going to do its way to ns Mediterranean. But los mountains will not let the pass; that meets ns Sierra ese Segura cabeza on and is compelled to make uno dramatic change of course, curving unexpectedly westward to start its largo run down to the Atlantic y the marismas of ns Coto Doñana.

At the start of its largo march to ns sea, ns Guadalquivir gives its surname to uno valley bounded by the sierras the Cazorla, Segura después Pozo and de la Cabrilla; it goes top top widening that V-shape in the direction of the sur east, limit by a series of peaks that are over 2,000m high.

Things to see

Museo de Caza is a museum devoted come hunting, one of los most popular activities here. Located next door to los Torre ese Vinagre visitors" centre, it display screens stuffed examples of the park"s wildlife also as an array of antlers.


Jardín Botánico is a botanical garden próximo to the Torre después Vinagre visitors" centre showing los park"s plant life grouped according to ns altitude at which they space found, with un section of flora endemic to the park. Un impressive enteramente of trescientos species are stood for here. The park"s second, y smaller, botanical garden is in silencio in the north.

Parque Cinegético Collado ese Almendral is a juego park where you deserve to try y spot mouflon, Spanish ibex, wild boar and deer representar the viewpoints on the circulo footpath the leads representar the car park. The park is on los A319 around 7km north of Coto Ríos.

Embalse de Tranco is a largo reservoir in the park"s centre, where you can do uno variety the (non-motorised) watersports and have ns swim or ns picnic. There is a small village, Tranco, top top its shores con several bars, restaurants and places to stay, some with good views gastos generales the reservoir.

Castles in ns area include ns remains that the cerrar con llave de smo Miguel de Bujaraiza, i beg your pardon you can see top top the isla in the middle of los Tranco reservoir y the castles in Cazorla and Tíscar. Segura de la sierra is the most dramatically positioned village, that is whitewashed homes huddled around un hill, topped by ns heavily revived castle.

Hornos counts together one of ns park"s most spectacularly sited villages, along con Segura ese la Sierra. The is perched on ns rocky crag with a ruined castle y has some superb views over the Tranco reservoir.

WalksThe parque is superb hiking country with uno myriad the tracks and footpaths over a wide variety of landscape yet only seven walks room signposted. For this reason make certain you have uno detailed mapa with you before you collection off; maps y details of to walk (some in English) are available representar the Cazorla tourist office or los visitors" centres. Remember that in winter it may be very cold y snowy y that in summer it can obtain uncomfortably hot to walk delaware midday.

Sendero fluvial Borosa is ns park"s most famous route through un spectacular alleyways hewn fuera de by los Borosa river, passing waterfalls on the way upstream to two mountain lakes. It starts at los Torre del Vinagre visitors" centre and takes roughly seven hrs to do los 19km round trip.

From los centre follow ns signs to the centrar Eléctrica, the electricity station, cross ns river y park simply before los trout farm (piscifactoría). Andar past los fish farm and you"ll see los signpost marking the beginning of the walk. Go over the bridge to reach ns riverside path, i m sorry crosses ns river at several points vía bridges. Where ns path forks, take ns right rotate signposted cerrada de Elías, which leads into uno narrow gorge (cerrada) y includes ns boardwalk ar above ns river.

Then you involved the sede Eléctrica y a bit additional along, los path goes through un few tunnels top to dos small reservoirs, the Laguna de aguas Negras and the Laguna ese Valdeazores.

Sendero cierre la puerta de Utrero, one of the park"s most ancha routes, is basic 2km circulo walk through a gorge to uno beautiful waterfall. It starts in ~ the crossroads del Vadillo eastern of Cazorla, whereby you have the right to park. Head to the bridge y before cross it, take uno left to follow los river gorge, the cerrado de Utrero. At the fin of los gorge is uno small dam and reservoir, along with un hydroelectric power station, i beg your pardon provides electricity for the localidades population. Delaware the reservoir is uno waterfall, the cascada de Linarejos.

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See also hombre Hunter-Watts" description of los Walk of los Thirsty Bear, i m sorry starts at the Puente del las Herrarias y ends in Cazorla village.


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